Our journey continues, in the previous article I described to you the town of sunsets (if you missed it click on the link), today instead I will tell you about a small town, the most hidden on the Amalfi Coast, famous in photos but little known in its entirety.
It is precisely about Furore.
Furore, the “town that is not there”
Driving along the Amalfi State Road 163, one often does not even notice that one is passing through a village, but it is precisely between Positano and Amalfi that the town of Furore stands out 300 meters above the sea.
Proclaimed by some as “the town that isn’t there,” more than a town, it is a scattered settlement, where houses do not stand next to each other but sprout from the rocky ridges along its famous fjord, the Fiordo di Furore.
A small town of just over 700 inhabitants, it is divided into two parts, the marine part and the charming houses along the ridge, hidden from the gaze of travelers.
A village worth exploring in all its uniqueness.
Furore became part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997 and also in the Club of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy.
According to historians, Furore owes its name to the ruggedness of the place that when it is lashed by the storm the roar that is created instills fear and dreadin fact, it is well known that Italian romance has no limits, so here the literal meaning of “furore” is:
“State of grave and impetuous resentment caused by an overwhelming passion.”
It was probably dedicated this meaning because of the fury of the sea storms but I think it is more because of the awe emanating from its scenic beauty.
Among the first people to settle here were the Romans in the imperial age. Due to its physical and geographical conformation, it has been a natural living stronghold for shelter from Saracen raids. According to tradition, it seems that the village was later populated with the coming of citizens from nearby Amalfi, who were exiled here due to political issues.
What to visit in the hidden village
Artistic and cultural heritage
As you may have noticed from reading the other articles, there is no village on the Amalfi Coast that does not have at least two or three churches to visit. However few inhabitants there are, the people’s beliefs have left clearly visible traces.
In the highest area of the town, among the monuments and places of interest in the historic center of Furore, we find the Church of St. Elias, dating from the 13th century, which houses a remarkable work by Angelo Antonello da Capua depicting the Madonna and Child and St. Bartholomew the Apostle.
There are also the ancient Church of St. James and the churches of St. Michael and St. Mary.
These are religious architectures with distinctive features, such as the majolica domes placed on their bell towers and the recently unearthed and restored frescoes, which are true architectural peculiarities.
The “en plain air” paintings
An additional peculiarity are the murals and sculptures all around, which make the place almost a gallery en plein air, and which really make Furore a “painted” town that also tells its story through artistic forms.
They are “Walls in search of an author” those of Furore, which have been decorated by well-known Italian and foreign artists since 1983. Today more than 120 works, including paintings and sculptures, make it one of the main and most original Painted Villages in the peninsula.
The theme of the story of Furore is recurrent in almost all the works. It should be remembered that Furore is a town without history, which until 1947 was occupied with the municipality of Conca dei Marini, and precisely for this reason an attempt has been made, through the murals and other types of works, to enrich the history of the town with real events, legends and anecdotes that have been echoing through the narrow streets of Furore for many years now.
Fjord of Furore
Fjord of Furore is the result of the erosive action of the Schiato River, which ploughed through the Agerola plateau to the sea.
The narrow, sharp and deep cut in the mountain creates a particularly striking natural setting.
Rocks are sheer, the vegetation clings to the cracks in the walls. The whiteness of the surf of the waves contrasts with the deep blue of the sea.
Fiordo di Furore is a small beach, a tiny inlet about 25 meters across, which can be reached only on foot, down a steep flight of steps and along a route between the rocks that begins at the bridge over the Fiordo on the Amalfi State Highway.
Every year, on one of the first Sundays in July, in the enchanting setting of the Fjord of Furore, the international sporting event MarMeeting takes place. This is a world championship of diving from great heights. As for the Furore competition, the dives are made from a height of 28 meters (maximum height established by the regulations).
The divers have only 3 seconds to coordinate their movements, impacting with the sea surface at a speed of about 100 km/h!
Spectators can watch for free. there are several places where you can watch the show: beach of the Fjord of Furore, on the bridge of the state highway, along the Rossellini steps or even from the sea via your own boat.
Free beach, but if you want to rent sunbeds it is possible to do so, not expensive at all, 15 euros two sunbeds! Since the beach is not very big I recommend you go before 9 am even if the sun shines from 12 pm until about 4 pm.
Parking is quite difficult to find, so better equip yourself with a scooter or with the Sita bus, getting off at the Furore stop.
As a testimony to the activities that once took place, the Ecomuseum was born.
It is developed at the foot of the Vallone di Furore. The musical structure, constitutes a point of reference for the local population, for tourism and, above all, for schools. A precious treasure chest for the rediscovery of the traditions of local culture, not only for Furore but for the entire Amalfi Coast. Inside you will be able to find:
- a herbarium with the plant essences of the area;
- a small Astronomical Observatory;
- Guided Visitor Center;
- Conference Hall;
- store for the sale of handcrafts and food and wine products;
- a small Library
- Villa Storta, a small Museum dedicated to Anna Magnani (a very famous Italian actress who starred in an episode of Federico Fellini’s series “Amore”);
- a rock chapel dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria, patron saint of millers;
- three restored Mills and two Paper Mills.
Developing necessarily in the mountains, the town of Furore certainly could not lack hiking trails. There are roughly 8 trails that connect Furore with other towns such as Agerola, Praiano and Conca dei Marini.
- Abu Tabela Trail: Pino -> San Lazzaro di Agerola – Travel time 50 minutes approx;
- Crow’s nest trail: Centena -> Bomerano di Agerola – Travel time 70 minutes approx;
- Flowering Agave Trail: Punta S.Elia -> Marina di Praia – Travel time 90 minutes approx;
- Sentiero della Volpe Pescatrice (Fish Fox Trail): S. Elia -> Fiordo di Furore –Travel time 40 minutes approx;
- Mad Bat Trail: Fiordo -> Punta Tavola (Conca dei Marini) –Travel time 30 minutes approx.;
- Blackbeard Trail: Vigne -> Moresca (by the Piane ways) –Travel time 70 minutes approx;
Pellerina Garden in Contrada Gatta
Furore, the “Land that is not there,” is home to a place dedicated to ‘love and lovers: The Garden of Pellerina. A little piece of paradise located in the area above the Church of San Michele.
The first name that comes to mind when pronouncing words like love, romantic and Valentine’s Day is the inescapable Cupid. In fact, the walk along this park begins precisely from the so-called Cupid Avenue that leads to the Aphrodite Square.
The walk culminates in an ascetic moment, walking across a Tibetan bridge to access a treehouse: a true love fairy tale, “two hearts and a hut.”
Finally, not far away is alive a fountain with magical features, “the liquid alcove,” which is composed of a circle tube inside which lovers can operate a button that causes gushes about 3 meters high, constituting a visual barrier that gives the loving couple a moment away from everyone’s eyes. Secret hideaway.
The Love Walk in Contrada Cicala
The scenic, level, very easy walk starts from the churchyard of St. Elia Church and is full of majolica tiles with Love-themed quotes and several benches for a pleasant rest. The path ends at an extraordinary belvedere with views of the Madonnina di Crevano below and opposite Praiano with its islets and the Sirens’ peninsula.
Nature walk of about 30 minutes, not physically demanding (except for the entrance, delimited centrally by a bar to prevent access by mopeds, it is also practicable by people in wheelchairs).
The vineyards of Marisa Cuomo
Among vines and rocks overlooking the sea of Furore, Marisa Cuomo’s Cantina was born. The grapes that grow clinging to the rocks of Furore are exposed to the magical action of the sun and the sea of the Amalfi Coast. Adding to the charm of the geometry of the winery’s vineyards is the striking winery carved into the rock.
Among enchanting bays and inlets, the vineyards of Cantine Marisa Cuomo dominate the Fiordo di Furore overlooking the Gulf of Salerno.
By booking one of the guided tours, you can visit the wineries and vineyards owned by the winery, experience the unique flavor of the extreme wines and taste the gastronomic specialties of Furore.
The most beautiful village in Italy
The beauty of the surrounding environment is the main attraction of this village-not-a-village framed by beautiful views: the olive trees, the terraced vineyards on the profile of the mountains, the pergolas of lemon trees, the colorful flowers of the wild brambles, and the blue sea peeking around a bend.
Here the work of man has adapted to the ruggedness of the place, its impervious nature, and created one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.
Rare beauty in such a small space in this gorge that stretches to the sea.
This is the Amalfi Coast that I want you to know. This is the coast I fell in love with, where every meter traveled gives emotions.
The tourist Coast is attractive of course, but the hidden one…it will leave you breathless!
Rely on the locals
Relying on people who know the place of your vacation destination is a smart way to deepen your research and make it easier to organize your itinerary.
Feel free to contact me by e-mail (Contact), or leave me a comment and tell me if you knew this village or some of its attractions!
As always, I will reply to you personally!
See you soon,